Small Bust? Details such as gathers, tucks, ruffles, or shirring amplify a small bust. So do cardigans, cable-knit sweater, notched jacket lapels, Empire waist-lines, and wide, cinched belts. Avoid clinging garments.
Large bust or broad shoulders? Look for dolman sleeves, blouson sweaters, small collars, vertical necklines, narrow lapels, and wrap fronts in non-clinging fabrics. Avoid wide necklines, puffed sleeves, ruffles, gathers, padded shoulders, wide belts, and Empire waistlines. Be sure garments don't pull across the bustline or shoulder blades.
Shop for overblouses, tunics, Empire-waisted dresses, and pullovers with dropped waistlines that will elongate your torso. So will a long scarf worn as an accessory. Avoid belted waistlines, which will cut you in half visually and will shorten your torso.
Buy pants in woven fabrics (popplin, garbardine, or wool flannel) that hang straight from a tailored waistband. Avoid jersey or polyester knits and elasticized waistbands; they accentuate bulges. Wear unbelted dresses; avoid fitted midriffs. Wear control-top panty hose for additional support.
Choose softly gathered skirts, straight skirts with small slits or kick pleats, or dresses in an A-line or slightly flared silhouette. Jackets with epaulets or padded shoulders and wide lapels can help to balance your upper torso with your hips. Try to avoid pleated skirts or pants with patch pockets at the hips.
Select skirts with hems that fall below your knees. Team them with color-coordinated hosiery and shoes. If you wear boots, be sure your hem covers the tops. Choose shirtwaist dresses or coat-dresses that have vertical seams from neckline to hemline. Wear tapered pants, without cuffs. Avoid above-the-knee hemlines, wide, cuffed pants, as well as boots that reach mid-calf or just above the ankle.
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